Casey checks in from Tanzania
We've been here a week now. Sometimes I look around and feel like it's not much different from being in Mexico somewhere - palm trees, ramshackle shacks where the locals live, hot. There are some quirky things about this country, but again, I think they are the sort of thing that you would find in just about any underdeveloped or third world country. Mexico is more developed than Tanzania though.
First of all is the lack of infrastructure. I have already spoken about the roads. There are some paved roads. The main roads into and out of town are paved, but they are also two lane roads, and the traffic gets quite heavy at times. Other roads are dirt, and they are so bumpy that going 15 mph is going "fast." There are no basic water services. The other day we were sitting around when this big tank truck pulls up. It was dropping off Anne's shipment of water. She has a big underground tank, I imagine it's similar to a septic, but for fresh water. She gets a delivery periodically, and that water supplies her house. Also, the city experiences power blackouts just about every day. Anne has a generator, and every once in a while the lights will flicker off, and then you will hear the generator start up. Of course, she is one of the privileged to have a generator - most of the locals know nothing of this luxury. If you go out driving, you will come upon the few intersections where they actually have traffic lights, but they will be out. And of course there aren't any police directing traffic, so it’s pretty much a free for all. But it works out all right. Much better than the cluster-fuck we saw in China, where people play bumper tag getting across intersections, and traffic lights are merely optional.
We went to the beach a few days back. Beautiful, white sand with water that demonstrates every shade of blue. It was surprising to see a beach this uninhabited, again in the major city of the country. If this beach were in the U.S., it would be lined with condos or hotels, but there were almost no buildings - although development is slowly encroaching. Lots of locals were fishing, either dragging 20 ft. hand-held nets through the shallows, or going out on their "dhukas," small wooden boats with a single sail. There are many dhukas criss-crossing the horizon as you look out across the water. We spent about 3 hours out there, the weather was great, clear sky, nice breeze, and we were virtually alone. Once we had had our fill, we packed up and clambered into "the beast." Suddenly, we noticed this "security guard" standing right next to the truck and staring into the passenger window. This guy had sidled up without any indication - it was kind of creepy. Anne laughed, remarking that as soon as we were leaving he shows up. He wanted a "tip." This is another noticeable fact of life in Tanzania. Everyone expects tips. This guy wanted a tip for guarding our truck, even though we never saw him the entire time we were at the beach. If the cops pull you over, they expect a "tip." (wink wink, nudge nudge) Anne offered the guy a handful of change, and he retorted "no, two thousand" (Tanzanian shillings, about $1.75) Anne said, "no, you can have this." He balked, and Anne rolled up her window and drove off. He was unhappy, but Anne is experienced in dealing with this "shakedown" of sorts, and knows what is reasonable. She doesn't cave into pressure, and isn't afraid to say "fuck you" when she needs to. This is probably the best part of being able to visit someone who knows the lay of the land - you don't get screwed as much.
Last night we went to the Marine house on the embassy compound for "happy hour." The marines live on compound and have a fairly nice set-up. They invite basically anyone to come to the house for drinks, and they show a movie and have some food catered. It was quite nice. Being an unabashed peacenik, I am kind of uncomfortable around military types, but I have to tell you it was a great experience, because these guys are great guys (and ladies) who are very dedicated, and very nice. My problems are not with the military personnel, but with the people who decide to send them into harms way for dubious reasons, and its good to be reminded that these people really are putting their lives on the line for our safety. If you find yourself in a foreign country near an embassy, go in and ask if the marines do a happy hour or anything like that. I understand that this is a common practice, at least in non-western outposts (Asia, Africa, S. America) and they want to have any/all Americans "in the neighborhood" to stop by.
Today we fly off to Kilimanjaro, hopefully to make it to the top. It'll take five days, and if we make it all the way we top off just shy of 20,000 ft, walking around 50 miles total. If we make it, we'll post a picture from the top.
First of all is the lack of infrastructure. I have already spoken about the roads. There are some paved roads. The main roads into and out of town are paved, but they are also two lane roads, and the traffic gets quite heavy at times. Other roads are dirt, and they are so bumpy that going 15 mph is going "fast." There are no basic water services. The other day we were sitting around when this big tank truck pulls up. It was dropping off Anne's shipment of water. She has a big underground tank, I imagine it's similar to a septic, but for fresh water. She gets a delivery periodically, and that water supplies her house. Also, the city experiences power blackouts just about every day. Anne has a generator, and every once in a while the lights will flicker off, and then you will hear the generator start up. Of course, she is one of the privileged to have a generator - most of the locals know nothing of this luxury. If you go out driving, you will come upon the few intersections where they actually have traffic lights, but they will be out. And of course there aren't any police directing traffic, so it’s pretty much a free for all. But it works out all right. Much better than the cluster-fuck we saw in China, where people play bumper tag getting across intersections, and traffic lights are merely optional.
We went to the beach a few days back. Beautiful, white sand with water that demonstrates every shade of blue. It was surprising to see a beach this uninhabited, again in the major city of the country. If this beach were in the U.S., it would be lined with condos or hotels, but there were almost no buildings - although development is slowly encroaching. Lots of locals were fishing, either dragging 20 ft. hand-held nets through the shallows, or going out on their "dhukas," small wooden boats with a single sail. There are many dhukas criss-crossing the horizon as you look out across the water. We spent about 3 hours out there, the weather was great, clear sky, nice breeze, and we were virtually alone. Once we had had our fill, we packed up and clambered into "the beast." Suddenly, we noticed this "security guard" standing right next to the truck and staring into the passenger window. This guy had sidled up without any indication - it was kind of creepy. Anne laughed, remarking that as soon as we were leaving he shows up. He wanted a "tip." This is another noticeable fact of life in Tanzania. Everyone expects tips. This guy wanted a tip for guarding our truck, even though we never saw him the entire time we were at the beach. If the cops pull you over, they expect a "tip." (wink wink, nudge nudge) Anne offered the guy a handful of change, and he retorted "no, two thousand" (Tanzanian shillings, about $1.75) Anne said, "no, you can have this." He balked, and Anne rolled up her window and drove off. He was unhappy, but Anne is experienced in dealing with this "shakedown" of sorts, and knows what is reasonable. She doesn't cave into pressure, and isn't afraid to say "fuck you" when she needs to. This is probably the best part of being able to visit someone who knows the lay of the land - you don't get screwed as much.
Last night we went to the Marine house on the embassy compound for "happy hour." The marines live on compound and have a fairly nice set-up. They invite basically anyone to come to the house for drinks, and they show a movie and have some food catered. It was quite nice. Being an unabashed peacenik, I am kind of uncomfortable around military types, but I have to tell you it was a great experience, because these guys are great guys (and ladies) who are very dedicated, and very nice. My problems are not with the military personnel, but with the people who decide to send them into harms way for dubious reasons, and its good to be reminded that these people really are putting their lives on the line for our safety. If you find yourself in a foreign country near an embassy, go in and ask if the marines do a happy hour or anything like that. I understand that this is a common practice, at least in non-western outposts (Asia, Africa, S. America) and they want to have any/all Americans "in the neighborhood" to stop by.
Today we fly off to Kilimanjaro, hopefully to make it to the top. It'll take five days, and if we make it all the way we top off just shy of 20,000 ft, walking around 50 miles total. If we make it, we'll post a picture from the top.
posted by John at 5:47 AM
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